‘Every Chef Ought to Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.